Prague, for friends

Praha · See

Prague, off the postcard

You'll find Charles Bridge on your own. These are the places locals take their friends: views with a beer in hand, hidden baroque gardens, and some very strange sculptures.

12 places

Letná beer garden & Metronome

Letná / Holešovice (Praha 7) · Free

Plastic-cup Pilsner under chestnut trees, with the Vltava's bridges lined up below

  • Views
  • Walks
  • Food & drink
  • Free
Letná beer garden seen from above, tables under chestnut trees with Prague's rooftops beyondView south from Letná over the Vltava and its line of bridgesThe giant red Metronome on its stone plinth above the steps in Letná park

A no-frills garden pub under old chestnut trees at the edge of Letná park, where Praguers sit at long tables with plastic cups of Pilsner and a view straight down the Vltava across a whole run of bridges. A short stroll along the ridge brings you to the giant Metronome, ticking away on the huge plinth of the demolished Stalin monument, with Old Town spread out below. It's the easy, local way to spend a summer evening above the city.

Don't miss

  • Grab a Pilsner and a bench at the south edge of the garden for the row-of-bridges view down the Vltava
  • Bring cash: the beer garden says it accepts cash only (there's an ATM on site)
  • Walk 10 minutes west along the ridge to the giant Metronome, on the plinth where Stalin's statue once stood

Opening hours

MonOpen all day
TueOpen all day
WedOpen all day
ThuOpen all day
FriOpen all day
SatOpen all day
SunOpen all day

Address

Letenské sady 341, 170 00 Praha 7 (beer garden by Letenský zámeček, eastern end of Letná park)

Getting there

Tram to Letenské náměstí or Chotkovy sady, then a short walk through the park; or climb the steps up from Čechův most

Best time

Summer evening, golden hour

Season

Beer garden roughly April–October, weather permitting (about 11:00–23:00); park and Metronome accessible all year

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Letenský zámeček (official website), Daniel Baránek / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Aktron / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Riegrovy sady

Vinohrady (Praha 2) · Free

Vinohrady's sunset lawn, with the Castle across the rooftops and a beer garden up the hill

  • Views
  • Gardens & parks
  • Food & drink
  • Free
Panorama from the Riegrovy sady lawn across Prague's rooftops toward the CastleGreen slope of Riegrovy sady with Prague Castle on the skyline beyondPacked tables in the Riegrovy sady beer garden under the trees

A hillside park in residential Vinohrady whose top lawn looks right across the city to Prague Castle. On warm evenings it fills with locals watching the sun go down behind it. Up by the old Sokol hall, a big beer garden under century-old chestnuts pours Pilsner and grills sausages, and shows big games on a giant screen. It's where people from the neighbourhood actually go, so it's an easy way to see Prague off-duty.

Don't miss

  • Claim a spot on the sloping lawn at the top of the park about half an hour before sunset. The Castle lights up across the city
  • Take a beer from the garden down to the grass, where locals picnic
  • If there's a big football or hockey match, the beer garden shows it on a 5-metre screen

Opening hours

MonOpen all day
TueOpen all day
WedOpen all day
ThuOpen all day
FriOpen all day
SatOpen all day
SunOpen all day

Address

Riegrovy sady 28, 120 00 Praha 2 (beer garden, Energy Pub); park bounded by Italská, Chopinova, Polská and Vozová streets

Getting there

Metro A Jiřího z Poděbrad (≈5 min walk); tram Vinohradská tržnice; or ≈10 min uphill from Metro C Muzeum / Hlavní nádraží

Best time

Sunset

Season

Beer garden Mon–Fri 14:00–22:00, Sat–Sun 12:00–22:00, mainly in the warm months (hours can change with weather and events); park open all year

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: ESC0601 / CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Chmee2 / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Energy Pub Riegrovy sady (official website).

Vyšehrad

Vyšehrad (Praha 2) · Free

Prague's other castle: ramparts above the river, a national cemetery and hardly any crowds

  • Views
  • Walks
  • Art & architecture
  • Free
The Vltava river curving south past marinas and green banks, seen from the Vyšehrad rampartsPainted vaulted arcade lined with tombstones and sculptures in Vyšehrad CemeteryThe neo-Gothic spires of the Basilica of Sts Peter and Paul rising above graves in Vyšehrad Cemetery

A fortress on a rock high above the Vltava, where Czech legend puts the city's mythical beginnings. Today it is a quiet park of brick ramparts, lawns and chestnut trees, with the neo-Gothic basilica of Sts Peter and Paul and the arcaded national cemetery where Dvořák, Smetana, Mucha and around 40 others in the Slavín tomb are buried. The views from the walls, upriver and across to the Castle, are some of the best in Prague, and tourist crowds are small.

Don't miss

  • Walk the ramparts on the west side for the view down the Vltava to Prague Castle
  • Find Dvořák, Smetana and Mucha in the arcaded cemetery and step into the Slavín tomb
  • Take the guided tour of the casemates to Gorlice, the largest underground hall in historic Prague, where original Charles Bridge statues are kept

Opening hours

MonOpen all day
TueOpen all day
WedOpen all day
ThuOpen all day
FriOpen all day
SatOpen all day
SunOpen all day

Address

V Pevnosti 163/2, 128 00 Praha 2

Getting there

Metro C to Vyšehrad (about 10 minutes' walk), or tram to Výtoň and climb up from the river

Best time

Late afternoon into sunset, from the western ramparts

Season

Fortress grounds open all year. Vyšehrad Cemetery: May–Sept 8:00–19:00, Oct 8:00–18:00, Nov–Feb 8:00–17:00, Mar–Apr 8:00–18:00.

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Mudr.abdulghani1 / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Godot13 / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Náplavka farmers' market

Nové Město / Výtoň (Praha 2) · Free

Saturday-morning farm stalls, coffee and street food on the Vltava embankment

  • Food & drink
  • Walks
  • Views
  • Free
Market stalls and crowds along the Náplavka riverbank on a sunny SaturdayStalls on Rašínovo nábřeží with the Vyšehrad railway bridge in the background

Every Saturday morning the cobbled Vltava embankment below Rašínovo nábřeží fills with more than 90 stalls of Czech farm produce, cheeses, bread, flowers and handmade goods, plus coffee, street food and live music. It's where locals do their weekend shop and meet friends for breakfast by the water, with moored boats and a Castle view as the backdrop. Tourists come too, but the mood is still a neighbourhood market.

Don't miss

  • Get there before 10:00, when it's calmer and the best produce and pastries are still there
  • Grab breakfast from the food stalls and eat it on the river wall, facing the Castle
  • Walk down the riverbank to Vyšehrad, or north to the Dancing House, to round off the morning

Opening hours

Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat8:00–14:00
Sun

Address

Rašínovo nábřeží (Náplavka riverbank), Praha 2, between Palackého most and Železniční most

Getting there

Tram Palackého náměstí or Výtoň (2, 3, 5, 7, 17, 21); Metro B Karlovo náměstí

Best time

Saturday, 9:00–11:00

Season

Every Saturday, year-round (the organiser lists dates February–December). The riverbank itself is open all the time

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Farmářské tržiště Náplavka (official website), Neslihan_Turan / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Vrtba Garden

Malá Strana · 150 CZK

A hidden Baroque terrace garden climbing Petřín, with a rooftop view over Malá Strana

  • Gardens & parks
  • Views
  • Art & architecture
Clipped hedges on the upper terrace of Vrtba Garden with the domes of St Nicholas and Prague Castle beyondView down over the terraced lawns and statues of Vrtba Garden to the rooftops of Malá Strana

A small High Baroque garden of about 3,000 m², laid out around 1720 by František Maxmilián Kaňka in steep terraces up the side of Petřín. The entrance is an easy-to-miss gateway on busy Karmelitská. Staircases lined with Braun's statues lead up past clipped hedges to a lookout over the red roofs of Malá Strana, one of the prettiest views in the district. It is small enough to see in half an hour and usually much calmer than the streets below.

Don't miss

  • Climb to the top terrace and the gloriette for a rooftop view over St Nicholas' dome to Prague Castle
  • Look for Matyáš Bernard Braun's statues of the gods along the stairs and balustrades
  • Step into the sala terrena to see Václav Vavřinec Reiner's Venus and Adonis ceiling

Opening hours

Mon10:00–19:00
Tue10:00–19:00
Wed10:00–19:00
Thu10:00–19:00
Fri10:00–19:00
Sat10:00–19:00
Sun10:00–19:00

Address

Karmelitská 373/25, 118 00 Praha 1 – Malá Strana

Getting there

Tram to Malostranské náměstí or Hellichova, then a few minutes' walk along Karmelitská

Best time

Weekday mornings after 10:00, or late afternoon light

Season

Open March–end of October only (2026 season opened 20 March); closed in winter.

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: VitVit / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Wallenstein Garden

Malá Strana · Free

Free Baroque garden of the Senate, with peacocks, bronze gods and an eerie dripstone wall

  • Gardens & parks
  • Art & architecture
  • Free
Avenue of bronze statues leading to the arched sala terrena of Wallenstein Palace, with Prague Castle behindThe pond in Wallenstein Garden with its fountain islet and the long palace wing beyondWallenstein Garden pond and fountain, with Prague Castle rising above the palace roofs

The formal early Baroque garden of Wallenstein Palace, built 1623–1630 for the general Albrecht von Wallenstein and now looked after by the Czech Senate, free to enter. An avenue of bronze gods (copies of Adriaen de Vries' originals, taken to Sweden as war booty in 1648) leads to a vast frescoed sala terrena. Along one side runs a strange grey wall of artificial dripstone, and peacocks wander around a carp pond. It sits right by Malostranská metro yet feels far calmer than the Castle steps above it.

Don't miss

  • Study the grotto wall of fake dripstone; hidden faces, frogs and snakes lurk in the stucco
  • Look for the peacocks, including white ones, strutting on the lawns (look, don't feed)
  • Stand in the huge sala terrena loggia, painted with Trojan War scenes, then walk to the pond with the Hercules fountain

Opening hours

Mon7:00–19:00
Tue7:00–19:00
Wed7:00–19:00
Thu7:00–19:00
Fri7:00–19:00
Sat9:00–19:00
Sun9:00–19:00

Address

Letenská, 118 00 Praha 1 – Malá Strana (Senate, Wallenstein Palace)

Getting there

Metro A or tram to Malostranská; the garden has an entrance right by the station

Best time

Weekday mornings (opens 7:00) before the tour groups

Season

Open 1 April–31 October only (2026: until 31 Oct); closed in winter. May close during heavy rain for safety reasons.

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: VitVit / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Václav Štorek / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Marie Čcheidzeová / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Kafka's rotating head

Nové Město (Národní třída) · Free

Černý's 42-layer steel Kafka that spins itself apart and back together at the top of the hour.

  • Art & architecture
  • Free
The mirrored steel head of Franz Kafka between the glass buildings of the Quadrio centre, with people in the squareClose view of the layered stainless-steel Kafka head reflecting the surrounding glass facadesThe Kafka head rising above café umbrellas in the square behind Quadrio

An 11-metre stainless-steel bust of Franz Kafka by David Černý, built from 42 separate layers that turn independently. Every hour the slices spin apart into an abstract, shimmering tower and slowly reassemble into the writer's face. It stands in a small square behind the Quadrio centre, right on top of the Národní třída metro station.

Don't miss

  • Be there on the hour: the full show, all 42 layers turning out of sync and snapping back into Kafka's face, runs about 15 minutes every full hour
  • Between shows, watch the slices make small, restless twitches
  • Stand close to the base and look up into the mirrored steel for the best photos

Opening hours

MonOpen all day
TueOpen all day
WedOpen all day
ThuOpen all day
FriOpen all day
SatOpen all day
SunOpen all day

Address

Charvátova, by the Quadrio centre (Spálená 22), 110 00 Praha 1

Getting there

Metro B Národní třída (exit into Quadrio); trams to Národní třída or Lazarská

Best time

On the hour, daytime; less crowded early morning

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: TheDumpy / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Eliška Jindříšková / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, VitVit / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Černý's upside-down horse

Nové Město (off Wenceslas Square) · Free

St Wenceslas riding a dead horse, hung upside down under Lucerna's art nouveau dome.

  • Art & architecture
  • Free
St Wenceslas sitting on an upside-down dead horse hanging beneath the stained-glass dome of the Lucerna passageClose-up of the upside-down horse and its rider under the glass domeThe horse sculpture hanging beneath the round stained-glass skylight of the Lucerna passage

Under the stained-glass dome of the Lucerna passage, David Černý hung St Wenceslas, patron saint of Bohemia, astride a dead horse suspended upside down, tongue lolling. It is a deadpan parody of the solemn equestrian statue just up the street on Wenceslas Square, and it has hung here since 2000. The art nouveau passage itself, with its cinema, café and ballroom, is worth the detour.

Don't miss

  • Walk to the main hall under the glass dome and look up: St Wenceslas rides the belly of his dead horse, hanging by its hooves
  • For the best angle, go up to Kavárna Lucerna on the first floor or the staircase and view it at eye level
  • Then see the original: Myslbek's heroic St Wenceslas statue is a two-minute walk away at the top of Wenceslas Square

Opening hours

Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun

Address

Pasáž Lucerna, Štěpánská 704/61 / Vodičkova 36, 110 00 Praha 1

Getting there

Metro A/B Můstek or A/C Muzeum; trams to Václavské náměstí or Vodičkova

Best time

Any time the passage is open; pair with a coffee at Kavárna Lucerna

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Fred Romero / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Satdeep Gill / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, JensKunstfreund / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Cubist Prague

Old Town · Free outside · museum 150 CZK

Gočár's cubist house with its original cubist café, and a one-of-a-kind cubist lamppost around the corner.

  • Art & architecture
  • Walks
  • Food & drink
  • Free
The House of the Black Madonna, a cubist corner building with angular window bays on Ovocný trhThe Black Madonna statue in a gilded cage on the corner of the house, next to the Kavárna signInterior of Grand Café Orient with cubist brass chandeliers and green upholstered seatingThe faceted cubist stone lamppost on Jungmannovo náměstí in front of a Gothic gateway

Prague is the only city where Cubism jumped from canvas to buildings, and Josef Gočár's House of the Black Madonna (1911–12) is its showpiece: angular window bays, crystalline ironwork and a corner Madonna rescued from the Baroque house that stood here before. The upper floors hold the Museum of Decorative Arts' Czech Cubism collection, while the first floor houses the restored Grand Café Orient, cubist down to its chandeliers. A short walk away, a faceted cubist lamppost still stands on Jungmannovo náměstí.

Don't miss

  • Have coffee and a pastry upstairs at Grand Café Orient, the only original cubist café interior (Josef Gočár), open since 1912
  • Look up at the corner of the facade for the small Baroque Black Madonna statue in her gilded cage, which gives the house its name
  • Walk 7 minutes to Jungmannovo náměstí to find the world's only cubist lamppost (Emil Králíček, 1912–13), tucked beside the Church of Our Lady of the Snows gate

Opening hours

MonClosed
Tue10:00–20:00
Wed10:00–18:00
Thu10:00–18:00
Fri10:00–18:00
Sat10:00–18:00
Sun10:00–18:00

Address

Ovocný trh 569/19 (corner of Celetná), 110 00 Praha 1

Getting there

Metro B Náměstí Republiky (5 min walk) or Metro A/B Můstek (lamppost is by Můstek)

Best time

Mid-morning coffee at the Orient, before the Old Town crowds peak

Booking

None needed

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: VitVit / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Thomas Ledl / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Ymblanter / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Noe / CC0 via Wikimedia Commons.

The paternoster at New Town Hall

Staré Město · 250 CZK · guided tour only

Ride a never-stopping 1911 paternoster lift on a guided tour of City Hall.

  • Art & architecture
The wooden open cabins of the paternoster lift in Prague's New Town HallThe marble-columned 1911 staircase hall inside the New Town HallThe art nouveau facade of the New Town Hall on Mariánské náměstí with its sculptures and flags

Prague City Hall's 1911 paternoster is said to be the first in the country: a chain of open wooden cabins that never stops, so you step in and out while it moves. After years of closure it can be ridden again on a 45-minute guided tour run by Prague City Tourism. The tour also takes in the building's art nouveau staircase and assembly hall.

Don't miss

  • Book ahead online: the paternoster can only be ridden on the official 45-minute guided tour, not on your own
  • Check the ticket calendar for an English-language departure; tours usually run Tue, Thu, Sat and Sun
  • The tour also opens the 1911 marble staircase and the city council's glass-roofed assembly hall, rarely open to the public

Opening hours

Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun

Address

Mariánské náměstí 2, 110 00 Praha 1 (tour starts at the entrance to the Klementinum Astronomical Tower)

Getting there

Metro A Staroměstská, then about 3 minutes on foot; tram to Staroměstská

Best time

Weekend tours; book a few days ahead

Booking

Guided tours only (usually Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun), ages 15+. Book through Prague City Tourism.

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Prague City Tourism (official website).

Žižkov Tower & the babies

Žižkov · Babies free · deck 350 CZK

A space-age TV tower with Černý's giant babies crawling up its legs, and a 360° view over the whole city.

  • Views
  • Art & architecture
Wide-angle view looking up the Žižkov Television Tower from the streetDavid Černý's giant faceless babies crawling up the tower's legsThe Žižkov tower rising above the rooftops, seen from Vítkov hill

Prague's tallest structure, a 1980s-to-early-90s steel-and-concrete rocket of a TV tower that towers over the rooftops of Žižkov and was long considered one of the city's ugliest buildings. David Černý's giant faceless babies, crawling up and down its legs, turned it into a landmark. Inside, an observation deck at 93 metres gives a 360° view, and the tower also has a restaurant, bar and a one-room hotel.

Don't miss

  • Look up: David Černý's giant faceless babies crawl up the tower's legs
  • Go up to the 93 m observation deck for a 360° view over the whole city, ideally around sunset
  • Come back after dark to see the tower lit up above Žižkov's rooftops, then stay for a drink in the Oblaca bar at 66 m

Opening hours

Mon9:00–24:00
Tue9:00–24:00
Wed9:00–24:00
Thu9:00–24:00
Fri9:00–24:00
Sat9:00–24:00
Sun9:00–24:00

Address

Mahlerovy sady 1, 130 00 Praha 3

Getting there

Metro A Jiřího z Poděbrad, then about 5 minutes on foot; trams to Lipanská or Jiřího z Poděbrad

Best time

Sunset or after dark for the deck; any time for the babies

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Sage Ross / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Raimond Spekking / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Bystroushaak / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

DOX & the Gulliver airship

Holešovice · 330 CZK

Provocative contemporary art in a Holešovice factory, with a wooden airship moored on the roof

  • Art & architecture
  • Views
The wooden Gulliver airship seen from the DOX courtyard between white gallery wallsThe Gulliver airship's timber hull resting on the roof of DOX against a blue skyInside the Gulliver airship: tiered wooden seating under a ribbed lattice ceiling

A former factory in Holešovice converted into Prague's largest independent centre for contemporary art, known for big, socially engaged exhibitions rather than polite white-cube shows. Its signature is Gulliver, a huge wooden airship by architect Martin Rajniš that seems to have docked on the roof, and now serves as a reading and event space for literature. One ticket covers every current exhibition and the airship.

Don't miss

  • Climb the stairs into the Gulliver airship, the 42 m wood-and-steel 'zeppelin' perched on the roof, entry is in the museum ticket
  • Browse the DOX bookshop, one of Prague's best for art, architecture and photography books
  • Finish with a coffee on the DOX Café patio before exploring the rest of Holešovice

Opening hours

MonClosed
Tue11:00–19:00
Wed11:00–19:00
Thu11:00–19:00
Fri11:00–19:00
Sat11:00–19:00
Sun11:00–19:00

Address

Poupětova 793/1, 170 00 Praha 7

Getting there

Tram to Ortenovo náměstí, or Metro C Nádraží Holešovice + 5 min walk

Best time

A weekday afternoon; pair with a walk around Holešovice

Booking

No booking needed; buy tickets on the day

Hours checked 23 Sept 2026; confirm on the website before you go. Photos: Jan Slavík / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons, Nan Palmero / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons, NoJin / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.